Ryozen-ji: A JOTM Guide

You don’t hear the pilgrims before you see them. Just the rustle of robes, the faint click of a staff tapping stone. Then, white garments, straw hats, prayer beads. The stillness shifts. You’ve arrived at the first step of something old, something ongoing. Ryozen-ji (霊山寺) is not just a temple, it marks the start of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, a 1,200-kilometer journey that begins here, at Temple 1 of the Shikoku 88. For those visiting Ryozen-ji, every sound feels weighted with meaning, as if the path ahead is already listening.

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Ryozen-ji at a Glance: Temple Overview & Quick Facts

• Region: Shikoku (Tokushima Prefecture)
• Nearest City: Tokushima
• Type of Site: Buddhist Temple (Temple #1 of the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage)
• Best Season to Visit:
  • Spring (March–May): Early blossoms drift through the air, and pilgrims begin their long journey
  • Summer (June–August): Quiet and green, with less foot traffic despite the heat
  • Autumn (September–November): Cool, amber-toned paths and a steady stream of walkers
  • Winter (December–February): Stark stillness, morning frost on stone steps, and few distractions

Why It’s Special in One Sentence

Ryozen-ji is not just a temple, it’s the first heartbeat of a spiritual path, where every step forward carries centuries of intention.

Why Ryozen-ji Is Worth Discovering: Highlights of Ryozen-ji’s Pilgrimage Spirit

• Ryozen-ji marks the first temple of the Shikoku Henro, a sacred 1,200-kilometer route. Each morning, new pilgrims trace their first steps beneath its gate, some in silence, some in prayer.
• This is not a culmination, but a starting point. The air feels charged with potential. Everything here, incense smoke, temple bells, footprints in gravel, leans toward the future.
• Inside the hondo (main hall), legends of Kūkai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, come alive. The temple preserves relics, statues, and a quiet reverence that suggests stories are still being written.
• Pilgrims bow, chant, and press stamp books to red ink. Even for non-pilgrims, there’s a rhythm to follow, a sense that you, too, are part of something larger than yourself.
• Arrive early to see light filter through cedar and cloud, illuminating prayer slips and the pale robes of those just beginning.

Must-See Wonders at Ryozen-ji: Main Hall, Bell Tower & Pilgrimage Path Highlights

Hondo (Main Hall)

• Step beneath the wooden beams blackened by time and touch prayer beads warm from others’ hands.
• The hall is quiet, intimate, and somehow both humble and immense.

Daishi Hall (Kōbō Daishi-dō)

• Dedicated to Kūkai, the revered monk behind the pilgrimage.
• Pilgrims often linger here longer, whispering odes or simply resting in the presence of his legacy.

Stamping Station (Nokyojo)

• Where pilgrims collect the first of 88 sacred stamps.
• A small, ritualized space where journeys are made visible.

Pilgrims’ Gate

• Watch for groups gathered here before dawn, some camera-shy, some chatting, most contemplative.
• A moment of stillness before movement.

The Small Garden Shrine

• Tucked behind the main structures is a miniature shrine with moss-softened stone, where non-pilgrims pause longer than expected.
• A breath before the road stretches ahead.

Local Secrets from JOTM: Hidden Tips for Visiting Ryozen-ji

• Arrive Before First Light: The temple opens early, and the hush before the first pilgrim enters is unforgettable.
• Walk Past the Gate, Then Pause: The experience of turning back to face the temple, knowing it’s the first of 88, lands heavier that way.
• Off-Season Is Deeper Season: Winter offers unbroken silence and space to feel the weight of beginning.
• Bring Your Own Sutras (or Silence): Even if you’re not chanting, walking with intention transforms the visit.
• Find the Jizō in the Corner: Behind the hondo is a small stone Jizō statue surrounded by offerings, often missed by those rushing onward.

Nearby Sacred Spaces: Shrines and Sites Near Ryozen-ji You Shouldn’t Miss

• Gokuraku-ji (Temple #2) – A gentle 10-minute walk from Ryozen-ji
• Ōasahiko Shrine – Shinto calm nestled in a forest grove (20 minutes by car)
• Myōō-in – A lesser-known temple tucked just 2 km south of Ryozen-ji, quiet and rarely visited by tourists.
• Onaruto Bridge & Whirlpools – Not sacred in tradition, but awe-inspiring in movement (30 minutes by car)

Getting to Ryozen-ji: How to Access the Temple by Foot, Bus, or Train

• By Train: Take the JR Naruto Line to Bando Station, then walk 10–15 minutes
• By Bus: Local buses run from Tokushima Station toward Naruto, but schedules are limited; check locally for the “Ryozenji-mae” stop
• By Foot: Ryozen-ji is often the first walking point from Tokushima for true pilgrims
• Hours: Typically open daily from dawn to dusk
• Cost: Free entry (donations welcome); pilgrim stamp ¥300

For travelers using the Japan Rail Pass, portions of this route may be covered, our guide offers practical insights on when it’s worth considering.

Resting Nearby: Hotels Near Ryozen-ji

• AoAwo Naruto Resort – A coastal retreat with ocean views and onsen baths, just 20 minutes from Ryozen-ji, ideal for a quiet reset before or after the journey begins.
• Grand XIV Naruto The Lodge – Nestled in pine-covered hills, this refined lodge offers a slower pace and easy access to both Naruto and the first pilgrimage temples.
• Hotel Anaga – Located on Awaji Island, this peaceful stay offers Seto Inland Sea views and a contemplative detour less than an hour from the temple region.
• Awaji Hamarikyu – A serene, ryokan-style hotel along the west coast of Awaji Island, where tradition and sea breezes mix.
• Hotel New Awaji – Blending Japanese elegance with ocean-side comfort, this onsen hotel offers an indulgent pause not far from the Naruto Strait.
• JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu – While farther afield, this polished base near the Seto Inland Sea is perfect for those linking pilgrimage with broader travel in Shikoku.

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If you’re planning a broader journey through Japan, our foundational guides offer clarity for every step of the way. Explore Planning a Trip to Japan: A JOTM Guide, learn How to Get Around Japan, and find the Best Time to Visit Japan for a season that resonates with your rhythm.

FAQs and Travel Tips about Ryozen-ji: A Few Last Things Before You Go

Looking for practical advice before your visit? These Ryozen-ji travel tips and FAQs cover everything from access to atmosphere, no matter your path.